Riding the axles

We drove back through the winding mountain passes to the nearest station to catch a train to Agra. Until my visit I believed that all trains ran on time in India, do not believe it! When the trains do arrive people run along the platform to jump on while passengers alighting jump off, my heart was in my mouth. A man was pulled out from under the train he had been riding the axles and given a severe reprimand by staff .. for not paying the fare, unbelievable! I have always dreamed of taking a train and watching the landscape of India flow past the window. After elbowing our way onto the train, I was shown my seat, it was a bunk 18" from the ceiling and I had to climb up there not realising I had the best seat in the house. I could not see out of the window, but I could watch the mini dramas enacted below, whole families finding a few inches to sit, lay, eat or sleep. As we reached each station a mass, mad exodus while new passengers where getting on with traders and beggars and I sat on my perch like a big owl taking it all in.

We arrived in Agra at 1.45am and had to be up for 5.30am to get to the Taj Mahal to watch the sunrise. It was worth it.... the moon shone over the building and then the sun started to rise. The Taj is white marble and covered in semi precious stones; it is set in beautiful gardens with cranes and eagles soaring overhead. The sweeping Yamuna river flows behind the Taj Mahal (Taj means dream in marble)and it really is a very romantic and melancholic place to be. It was built by Sahjahan in memory of Mumtaz Mahal for the love of his life who died giving birth to their 14th child.

Back to the station for the final push back to Delhi and the flight home. The station was chaotic, an Indian lady walked up and down the platform with a sari trailing five feet behind her, it was filthy and when I asked if she was a holy woman I was told "No, she is just mad". Our train kept getting delayed (we had been there 3 hours) and finally because of my return flight Vineet my iSpiice guide suggested we leave and find an alternative route back.

We raced across the city and managed to catch an Indian bus back to Delhi (and I had said I would never ride in one again). Arriving very late I managed to wash and fall into bed for a few hours sleep. At 9.00 am we (Vineet my guide and Reggie a South African, also a volunteer) travelled to the airport and security was so tight I was refused entry by the army who were stationed at the doors. I had booked my flight on the internet and did not have a paper ticket and had to rush about finding officials who could give me some sort of authority to enter. Reggie was a star and he helped me with my luggage and pushed me through the doors (he had come along to have some breakfast at the airport and was not allowed in poor chap).

So it was a great relief to board the Jetair aircraft and settle down to a film and some good food, but India is always full of surprises and 'Delhi belly' decided to travel with me and strike at that moment. So I arrived at Heathrow looking and feeling a bit like the woman on Agra rail station ... pretty rough.

All's well that ends well and I am now home, sleeping in my own bed and loving the feel of the soft breeze and cool rain but .... my thoughts constantly return to the gentle, generous people in Himachel Pradesh who opened their homes, hearts and beautiful country to me. I can never thank them or the iSpiice organisation and staff enough.

Would I do it again? Definitely, it was an adventure of a lifetime!